the beginning, elk breeders used dart guns as a means of handling their elk for testing and treatment. This meant that animals sometimes
went without care because darting animals was difficult, time-consuming and,
occasionally, fatal. Therefore, out of necessity breeders started experimenting
with different types of systems for handing elk.
first-generation handling systems used a series of catwalks. The operator was
above the elk. This was not completely satisfactory because animals would balk,
and it could be impossible to get them to move into the next pen without getting in the pen with
them, an idea that is never appealing. Some people tried cattle systems, using
a very narrow alleyway. This doesn’t work for elk because they refuse to move,
due to the narrow sides. Through experimentation, the industry has discovered
the “psychology of elk” dictates that the size of a handling cubicle needs to
be between 5’ x 5’ and 8’ x 16’ (bulls with antlers need a minimum of 6' x 6' with over 8' of clearance). In a cubicle any smaller than this, the animal
feels too confined and will fight and refuse to move. In a larger enclosure, a group of animals will pile into a back
corner, making it difficult to move them out of the pen without injury. Within this range elk seem to be calm, alert, and easy to handle.
There are a number of parts to a
complete elk handling system. Typically, a system will include fenced pastures,
a raceway connecting the pastures to a corral or holding pen(s), a barn or shed
with cubicle system and a squeeze, a way to load animals for shipment, plus a
way to sort animals into different groups.
There are many different ways to
construct such a system. I recommend that you visit several different farms to
see animals worked in various systems before you decide what is right for you. If you are purchasing a system, the vendor should help you in designing the system that fits your needs.
in mind that it takes some degree of skill on the part of the operator to make
even the best system work smoothly and safely. In all systems you need to work
slowly and patiently, and learn how to read or communicate with your elk. If the animals start running in the pasture, then they will probably be to nervous in the handling system, so you would be better off waiting until they calm down. Also, it is amazing to see the difference in
how an elk will work through a system when you
are nervous and stressed versus when you are calm and at ease.
you move elk from a bigger space to a smaller space. But you cannot go directly
from a several-acre pasture into a barn very easily. There must be some
intermediate steps. Normally, you begin with a raceway between 12’ and
30’ wide; ideally, this will connect all the pastures to the corral and the
barn. How wide you make the raceway depends on such factors as driving
equipment in it and snow requirements. If you have to have a long raceway, it
works best to have some bends in it so the elk can go around a corner thinking they have escaped from you, and they will stop or slow down so you can catch up.
section of raceway 28’ to 30’ wide and 300 or more feet long can be used to
sort animals. This means you don’t have to bring in a big group of animals when
you only have to work a few. This type of sorting is accomplished by
pushing one group of elk to one end of this section of alleyway. If you stand up against the fence on one
side and look away from them, they will go around you single file. When you turn and face them they will stop going by you. In this way, you can send
small groups to the other end of the lane where your helper can open and close
gates and send them back into a pasture or into the corral.
raceway should lead to a corral or holding pen adjacent to the barn. This needs to be constructed of something
more visible that woven wire. You can put shade cloth on the woven wire or use
corral poles or boards. If you choose to use poles or boards I recommend that they be hung horizontally
so that the operator can climb out in an emergency. A corral can be as small as
40’ x 40’. If it is much larger than this, you will need a wing in the corral
to help herd the elk into the barn.
you go into the corral with the elk, they will look for a way to get away from
you. First, they will check the perimeter. Then they will go into the barn,
especially if they can go around the corner where they cannot see you. At this
point, if you have to run toward them to shut the door, they may panic and run
back out. So I recommend that you rig up a rope running along the top of the
corral fence so that you can stand about 30’ away from the gate and close it by
pulling the rope. Make sure that the animals cannot get tangled up in the
the elk go into the barn, they should be in a space no more than 8’ wide. The
walls should be solid on the back side and at least 8’ tall. The front side
should be a series of swing gates 8’ wide and 8’ tall with solid wood on the
bottom and bars on the top. When you are working elk in the barn, they will be
much calmer when they can see you at ground level from only one side of the pen
they are in. These gates should swing in so you can move the elk forward in the
system. You can also use sliding gates to separate the space into 8’ x 8’ pens.
the animals move toward the squeeze, the pens or cubicles should get smaller,
ending at the last pen which is 5 or 6’ square. This makes it easy to separate
the elk until there is just one animal waiting to go into the squeeze. This cubicle is a good place to put a scale.
To move an animal in this type of system, you will open a slide gate and slowly
push a swing gate in toward the elk until it steps into the next cubicle. Then,
close the slide gate and pull the swing gate back and latch it. Normally, you
will not be physically pushing the elk, but if you move slowly, they will move
away from you. The gate is for your safety, and it is important that the latch
be able to stop the gate in case the elk should push it back toward you.
barn itself does not have to be fancy or big. A 24’ by 40’ building is big
enough for a small or medium handling system. Another helpful hint is to have gravel
or small rock (1” to 2”) in the barn where the elk will be walking. Besides keeping the dust down, it also
tends to slow down the elk. I do not recommend concrete as a floor because it
is too slippery and unforgiving.
are a number of types of squeezes available, with a wide range of prices. There
are two basic types of squeezes: manual and hydraulic. Some work quite well,
and improved versions come out regularly. You need to determine what your needs
are when looking for a squeeze. If you are working hundreds of animals in a
day, you may want to consider a hydraulic squeeze. But the average elk operator
should consider a well-made manual squeeze. You should look for good accessibility to all parts of the
animal and pay special attention to safety for both you and your elk. Try to
see animals being worked in a squeeze before you buy it so that you can
familiarize yourself with its operation. Also, try having someone with
experience help you work it the first time.
animals come out of the squeeze, they should go directly out into a sorting pen
(which may be the corral) or into a trailer, if they are being shipped. From this pen you should be able to move
or regroup animals into different pastures. A well-designed and operated system
makes handling elk easy, safe and enjoyable.
and her husband, Dave, have been raising elk since 1987. Both Sue and Dave have been officers and directors of NAEBA and are very active in the elk industry. Currently, Sue is director and chief financial officer of the Elk Research Council and communications coordinator for the Western States Elk Alliance. Dave and Sue have been presenting "Beginner Elk Farmer" seminars throughout the country since 1995. They are former owners of The Elk and Bison Company, LLC which designs and manufactures handling systems for elk. Guests are always welcome at their High Wire Ranch. You may contact them at (970) 835-7600 or email at email@example.com. Look them up on the web at www.highwireranch.com.